Sunday, 21 February 2010

The One Jean

Good friend of Denim Insiders, and ex Levi's and Evisu designer, Mark Westmoreland has produced his idea of the ultimate jean.


Mark has been inspired by all the best parts of jeans through the ages and showcased them in One very unique pair. Only 100 of these jeans were made, and all are hand numbered and hand finished by Mark himself.


OK, so this one has already been seen out and about for a while, and available in places such as oki-ni and Dover Street Market (especially if you're after the elusive 32" waist, Denim Insider have been suitably informed that DSM have got a few left in this size). However, Denim Insiders was lucky enough to get their hands on a pair, thanks Mark, some time ago; but to their regret only got round to wearing them this week, sorry Mark!


These truly are a superlative product, from the fabric and sundries used to the thought that has gone into the design and the engineering quality. So, we thought it would be more than appropriate to showcase some of the details that make this pair of jeans so special.


14.5oz raw Japanese heavyweight fabric from Warehouse Co.

Crotch rivet and heavy stitch in pink thread at stress point.
Continuous cross over stitch on the fly.
Pink heavy stitch thread on the belt loops.
Navy cross bar tacking on the back pockets. Thread is naturally dyed indigo!

Denim Insiders pair features a horse hair back patch, with hand branding (no. 71 in our case, craftily turned upside down to form the letter K).
Rivets are washer and burr for that authentic premium look
Unbranded fly button.Inside fastener of the waist button, featuring green internal stitching. All thread is single stitched, with 100% cotton thread, on an old Union Special machine.


Carhartt 'inspired' button. "Mark, wherever did you think that one up from?" Genius!
Green thread also used on the inside of the felled seam (update: I have been informed that this is not technically a 'felled seam'. The designer specifically wanted to keep from using the run and fell machine; but relented on the front rise).

We can't wait to see what Mark comes up with next and look forward to the continued evolution of the One brand.

But finally, to bring it home and conclude this, a Gold list in the Selvedge!