The One Jean

Good friend of Denim Insiders, and ex Levi's and Evisu designer, Mark Westmoreland has produced his idea of the ultimate jean.


Mark has been inspired by all the best parts of jeans through the ages and showcased them in One very unique pair. Only 100 of these jeans were made, and all are hand numbered and hand finished by Mark himself.


OK, so this one has already been seen out and about for a while, and available in places such as oki-ni and Dover Street Market (especially if you're after the elusive 32" waist, Denim Insider have been suitably informed that DSM have got a few left in this size). However, Denim Insiders was lucky enough to get their hands on a pair, thanks Mark, some time ago; but to their regret only got round to wearing them this week, sorry Mark!


These truly are a superlative product, from the fabric and sundries used to the thought that has gone into the design and the engineering quality. So, we thought it would be more than appropriate to showcase some of the details that make this pair of jeans so special.


14.5oz raw Japanese heavyweight fabric from Warehouse Co.

Crotch rivet and heavy stitch in pink thread at stress point.
Continuous cross over stitch on the fly.
Pink heavy stitch thread on the belt loops.
Navy cross bar tacking on the back pockets. Thread is naturally dyed indigo!

Denim Insiders pair features a horse hair back patch, with hand branding (no. 71 in our case, craftily turned upside down to form the letter K).
Rivets are washer and burr for that authentic premium look
Unbranded fly button.Inside fastener of the waist button, featuring green internal stitching. All thread is single stitched, with 100% cotton thread, on an old Union Special machine.


Carhartt 'inspired' button. "Mark, wherever did you think that one up from?" Genius!

Green thread also used on the inside of the felled seam (update: I have been informed that this is not technically a 'felled seam'. The designer specifically wanted to keep from using the run and fell machine; but relented on the front rise).

We can't wait to see what Mark comes up with next and look forward to the continued evolution of the One brand.

But finally, to bring it home and conclude this, a Gold list in the Selvedge!

Blue Gold (Denim Movie)

Just came across this teaser for a forthcoming documentary on the industry.

Something close to Denim Insiders hearts, (and minds, but more to follow on that at a later date) looking at the people behind the scenes.

Good to see Lynn from Levi's laying down the law to the cameraman near the end.

http://www.bluegoldthemovie.com/teaser.html

Amoskeag Manufacturing Company

The first mill built in Old Harrys Town (This was the first name for this part of the world, becoming Tyngstown in 1735, rechristened Derryfield in 1751 and finally settling on the name Manchester in 1810) was back in 1805, by Benjamin Prichard.

The Amoskeag manufacturing company was formed in 1831.In its heyday it operated 23,000 looms, employing some 17,000 people and shipped almost five million yards of cloth every week.

As well as being a manufacturer of cloth the Amoskeag Manufacturing Company also produced products as diverse as locomotives and fire engines; as well as muskets during the American Civil War.

Unfortunately the Amoskeag Manufacturing Company was a victim of the recession in the 1920's and the Great Depression in the late 20's and 30's. The company was finally closed on Christmas Eve, 1935.

The link to denim of course is that a certain Loeb Strauss purchased cloth from Amoskeag and sold it on to a Nevada tailor by the name of Jacob Youphes, with which to make waist overalls. Levi Strauss and Co. were the most famous of Amoskeags denim customers but undoubtedly they were not alone.


In the present day a brand has come into existence that celebrates the heritage and history of Amoskeag. Drawing its inspiration from, and using actual denim cloth from Amoskeag as research; in order to reproduce a cloth as close as possible to the original.

Amoskeag XX have produced some stunning pieces in their collection that draw on this rich history. Their attention to detail on thread choice, stitching detail and trims is very impressive.

You will also notice that the denim has a much lighter, brighter and richer hue in colour to what we would see with current selvedge raw denim. Some say, and I believe them, is that this is due to the natural vegetable dye that was used at this time from the Amoskeag area. The Levi's Vintage Clothing 1st Blue Jean is another reproduction from this era which also has this same cloth colour (below picture does not do the colour justice, it's lighter and brighter when viewed in person).

If you get a chance you can also check out the Amoskeag XX products at their store on Orchard Street, New York. Or on their website:http://amoskeagxx.com/

Welcome

When deciding where to start when writing about denim one first thinks of numbers. The obvious, 501, 101, 13mwz etc. And the less obvious, 201, 131 No. 1 etc. etc.

So, not wanting to be obvious, and avoiding the obtuse, I'm taking whatever inspiration I can find, whether it be new news, or old news; as long as it's of interest.

I hope you find it of interest as well!